Taste of winter: Chinese sausages

A woman tends to the homemade sausages in Rugao. [Photo/WeChat account: rugaofabu]

In Rugao, a county-level city located in Nantong, households have commenced the practice of hanging their homemade sausages and cured meats, signaling the approach of the Chinese New Year.

The foundational flavor profile of these sausages is established through the use of finely chopped ginger, high-quality white wine, and a measured application of sugar and salt. In contrast to the sweet and delicate flavor characteristics associated with Cantonese sausages and the spicier varieties typical of Sichuan, the residents of Rugao emphasize a commitment to simplicity in their culinary traditions.

The preparation involves selecting hind leg meat, primarily utilizing lean cuts complemented by a moderate amount of fatty meat to ensure a non-greasy palate. Some individuals opt for pork belly sausages, which provide a distinctive taste through their alternating layers of fat and lean meat. The meat is cut into small cubes or slightly thick slices to preserve texture and promote a tight bond during the stuffing process, ensuring a uniform and firm consistency for the sausages.

Upon completion, the sausages exhibit a bulging casing filled with red and white meat, resembling a thickness comparable to that of a one-yuan coin. Following a two-week air-drying period, the sausages absorb the essence of sunlight and moonlight, developing a rich wine aroma and resulting in a transformation of the fat content.

The finished sausages present a bright, translucent red appearance, with shiny fatty sections and firm, vibrant lean portions. They are refreshing without being greasy and possess a solid texture without being dry.

Cured meats are arranged in front of each household on bamboo poles or eaves. On a sunny afternoon, the red of the sausages juxtaposed against the blue sky creates a distinctive visual representation of the Chinese New Year celebrations.